I went to Sagres to receive the inspiration of Infante D. Henrique and then, as Saramago refers in “Journey to Portugal,” when leaving Cape St. Vincent – “The traveler will go up along the coast. To the North.” And that’s what I did. I traveled up the coast to the homeland of Vasco da Gama. I ended the journey in Sines. Or not… because quoting the writer again, “The journey never ends.”
Do you want to enjoy a beach? Go in the summer… (even better, in the first warm days, when they are empty). If you prefer to admire its beauty, then choose winter. Preferably, with a storm nearby. That’s what I did!
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY…
When I was born, Portugal was celebrating the 5th centenary of the death of Infante D. Henrique, which occurred in 1460. I don’t remember the celebration. Also, the homonymy is just a coincidence. At that time, the epic of the Discoveries was truly being celebrated (which seems to be some remorse today).
The Infante and his School of Sagres, the existence of which is not consensual, but it was the Infante’s inspiration and sponsorship that played a fundamental role in the discoveries of new territories. Also in advances in the study of geography, cartography, the art of navigation, and even new types of boats like the Caravel. And it was a long journey until the arrival in India by sea, which only happened 4 decades after the disappearance of D. Henrique.
The task of leading the fleet, overcoming the Adamastor, and reaching India was entrusted to Vasco da Gama. It was expected that a new trade route could be established, transferring the wealth that previously belonged to merchants who traveled by land to Portugal.
If Sagres is indelibly linked to Prince Henry the Navigator, Sines is the land of Vasco da Gama. He was born there in 1469 because his father, Estêvão da Gama, was the alcaide-mor of the town.
…AND A BIT OF GEOGRAPHY
It is approximately 130 km from Sagres to Sines. In my opinion, it is the most beautiful stretch of coastline in Portugal. There are numerous coves and beaches – each one different from the next. With high cliffs or extensive sandy beaches, the diversity and beauty are undeniable. Even more so in the winter…
This piece of land by the sea can be divided into two parts:
– The Costa Vicentina, from Burgau (already facing south after passing Cape St. Vincent) to Odeceixe in the north. It belongs to the Barlavento Algarvio (barlavento: where the wind blows from) and administratively to the municipalities of Vila do Bispo and Alzejur.
– The Southwest Alentejo region begins right after Odeceixe, at Azenha do Mar, a typical fishing port, and goes north almost to Sines: to Praia de S. Torpes. It covers the coastline of the municipalities of Odemira and Sines.
Both areas make up the Costa Vicentina and Southwest Alentejo Natural Park (PNCVSA).
I went to appreciate the beauty of these beaches… in Winter and with a storm nearby. It is this journey that I tell you about: From Sagres to Sines… or from the inspiration of Infante D. Henrique to the conquest of Vasco da Gama. After all, it is journeys that we talk about… As for the travelers, there is no comparison. I reduce myself to my insignificance.
I WAS NOT ALONE!
My travel companion was something new: a YAMAHA!
The opportunity arose and, obviously, I embraced it with all curiosity and interest. I thank Yamaha Portugal.
The chosen model was the Tracer 9 GT. A traveler that the brand qualifies as “Sport Touring” to travel the “Roads of Life”. Therefore, perfectly identified with the purpose of this journey. Did it live up to expectations?
1st DAY – HEADING TO SAGRES
The weather forecasted unstable weather. Now that the Seasons of the Year are obsolete (a vague concept that does not fit the urgency of “moving on” at the pace of news “breaking news”) and have been replaced by Climate Change in which a heavier rain or stronger wind gains the right of baptism, I left home under the influence of “Fien”.
In summary: low temperature, prospects of showers and medium intensity wind. In other words… Winter!
With 250 km traveled on the A2, I arrived in Silves. I was in a hurry: I wanted to encounter the last effects of the storm near the “Promontorium Sacrum” as the Romans called Cape St. Vincent.
In round numbers, 10 euros for fuel plus another 12 in taxes on it and the same amount to pay for the consumed asphalt!
Let’s keep going because from here on it’s road! A piece of one of the most beautiful roads we have in Portugal and that is forgotten: the EN124. Granted, the most interesting part is in the opposite direction, towards near Alcoutim. That will have to wait for next time…
Then, another stretch of the infamous EN125 and I arrived in Sagres, where my journey would begin. By now, I had already dealt with the expected cold. Sagres greeted me with a downpour. The wind was missing, but I didn’t have to wait long: as I approached the Atlantic, there it was with great force! The rest of the day would be better, fortunately.
Is a wet journey a blessed journey? I think I’ve heard a similar phrase but I can’t remember where…
The first encounter took place in the center of the village of Sagres: the statue that pays tribute to The Navigator, Infante D. Henrique. Symbolically, here is where my journey begins: from the Infante to the Gama.
The statue of Infante D. Henrique and the Sagres Fortress – Standard
Then it was the obligatory circuit: Sagres Fortress and Cape St. Vincent. The rain continued to fall…
Located east of Cape St. Vincent, Sagres Fortress is situated on a steep promontory about 1 km long. Strategically positioned in a privileged location to control maritime traffic, it was built in the 15th century – during the Age of Discovery – and has endured the vicissitudes of time and use (… and the 1755 earthquake) which led to some alterations to its original design over the years. As the most visited national monument in the Algarve, it is one of the greatest symbols of the Age of Discovery.
Inside is the Church of Our Lady of Grace, dating from the same period, with the detail of an exterior staircase to access the double bell tower.
It was time to change our resting place and head to the point where the land ends and the sea begins: Cape St. Vincent. What would our ancestors have felt when they arrived here and, for them, it was the end of the world? Because beyond the visible sea was the great unknown…
On the way, a brief stop to admire the cliffs at Beliche Beach… and the surfers too. Further ahead, the small fort that gives the beach its name.
Since visiting the fortress of Cape St. Vincent is not possible (it seems to have been closed for renovations for over a decade…), I contented myself with the spectacular views of the cliffs on either side.
Fortaleza de S. Vicente
RUMO A NORTE…
Saí do Cabo e segui até Vila do Bispo e às primeiras praias que queria visitar.
A primeira – Praia do Castelejo – fica no final de um pequeno troço de estrada íngreme e que proporciona uma belíssima aproximação ao mar.
Enseada com uma pequena extensão de areia, ladeada a sul por alta falésia e a norte pelo que parece ter sido um esporão rochoso mar dentro, que os elementos terão vindo a demolir progressivamente.
Praia do Castelejo no Inverno
A seguinte, com características idênticas, tem um pormenor interessante: antes de lá chegar, por um desvio em terra batida, acedo a um miradouro que oferece uma belíssima perspectiva da costa (e do que me esperaria a partir daqui). São o Miradouro e a Praia da Cordoama.
From Miradouro we can see the “other side” of Castelejo (to the south) but, mainly, the development of the coastline to the north. Fantastic view to which the rough sea adds beauty. Do you understand why I say that to appreciate the beauty of a beach it has to be at this time of year?
Praia da Cordoama
If the access to Castelejo left me with water in my mouth, then what took me to Cordoama was “like a dream come true”. Excellent way to start!
I returned to EN268 which would accompany me almost to Alzejur, where the journey would end. Until then, there was much to see.
The next stop was at Praia do Amado. To get there, you have to take a detour of a few kilometers. Narrow and beautiful road, where the strong green predominates on the hills on either side. The heavy rain in recent times provides this spectacle of nature.
Upon arrival, a beach bar (closed) reminiscent of more exotic stops, with its fluttering thatched umbrellas and two wooden staircases – today they call them boardwalks – allowing access, a little further down to an appetizing sandy beach punctuated by some rocks that illustrate the effect of erosion over time on the cliffs that serve as its frame.
Contour the coast by secondary road and arrive at Bordeira. A beach that contrasts with the previous ones. But that does not lose in beauty.
Praia do Amado
Beyond an extensive sandy beach that extends inland in the form of a plain and where, to the south, a small stream adds an interesting contrast: the fresh water that comes from the interior and joins the salt of the sea.
Bordeira
The wind helped some kitesurfers dedicate themselves to the practice of their sport in the peace of a deserted beach.
I returned to EN268 heading north. The day was coming to an end. The sun was already crossing the last quarter of its journey before the nightly rest. Halfway through the remaining journey to Aljezur, I come across EN120 – coming from Alcácer do Sal and ending in Lagos, a route almost parallel to the coast and with some very interesting sections for those who want to do it by motorcycle: Grândola, Cercal and Espinhaço de Cão mountains.
Just before Aljezur, I head towards Arrifana.
Another small cove, with a sandy beach dominated by cliffs around it. Here, a more developed tourist setting can be noticed compared to the previous beaches. At the northern tip, the fortress (in ruins) punctuates the horizon and anticipates a promising panoramic view.
Arrifana
Built in 1635, on top of a cliff about 70 meters high, to protect this piece of coast, it suffered the vicissitudes of time, the inclemency of the weather, the fragility of the terrain, the 1755 earthquake… human neglect… But the view is still worth it because it allows you to observe the small fishing port where the boats seem like miniatures of a toy.
From the fortress, only a piece of its front wall and the gate of arms remain.
Fortress of Arrifana
I head towards the last beach of the journey. The sunset was approaching and it would be the perfect way to end the journey: I arrived at Monte Clérigo.
By arriving from the south and leaving from the opposite side, I was able to observe this beautiful beach from both ends. On the southern slope is the cluster of houses, the small village of Monte Clérigo, which gives its name to the beach.
Monte Clérigo – Sunset
I returned to EN120 and entered Aljezur. The day was coming to an end. Friends were waiting for me, ready to welcome me as only they know how.
2nd DAY – HEADING TO SINES
The day dawned in Alzejur. The weather was better than the day before, anticipating a good day for traveling. But it was still winter!
I was about to leave the Algarve and enter the Alentejo. It is interesting to mention a bit of the history of the place where I stayed overnight.
Ancestral land, populated by the Moors, was conquered by the Christians in the 13th century. In 1280, it received the charter granted by King Dinis.
Dominated by the Castle, we can see that Alzejur is divided into two urban nuclei.
It is a legacy of the 1755 earthquake. If the fame of the devastation of Lisbon remains from this time – which was one of the largest and most cosmopolitan cities in the world at the time – it is fair to say that the piece of land that goes from here to Sagres and that I traveled yesterday, was where the intensity of the earthquake was greater, resulting in the total destruction of Alzejur, Vila do Bispo, and other smaller villages.
Thus, the village that was located on the slopes of the Castle was completely devastated. The Bishop of the Algarve, D. Francisco Gomes de Avelar, ordered the construction of the Church of Nª. Srª d’Alva in a location in front of the old village so that the population would transfer there and abandon the destroyed lands on the slopes of the Castle. Some accepted the option, others preferred to stay, which is why it is noticeable today that Alzejur spreads across the two neighboring slopes.
Alzejur – new village
RETURN TO THE PATH
With Alzejur behind me, I had two beaches left before crossing the “border” between the Kingdom of the Algarve and the land of the plains.
The first is the almost anonymous Vale dos Homens Beach. Small, between sharp cliffs, you reach the sandy beach down below by steep stairs. Small but very beautiful.
Just like the day before, the sea with successive small waves spreads out on the sand or crashes loudly against the rocks. Like I said before, the beaches are more beautiful in the Winter!
Another journey along a narrow road and I arrived at one of the “jewels” of this route “From Infante to Gama”: Odeceixe beach. It is located a few kilometers inland from the village that gives it its name and which is on the bank of the Seixe River.
Seixe River
This river is a fundamental element in the beauty of the beach as it flows into it. The tourist demand is reflected in the urbanization on the hillside overlooking the beach, but at this time you can breathe the pure maritime air and a great calm!
So it was time to stop and have the usual coffee at the only bar that was open.
Odeceixe Beach
I enter Alentejo and start in a different way. Azenha do Mar is a tiny, rudimentary, and picturesque fishing port. Some dedicate themselves to fishing in a completely artisanal way, while others are engaged in the collection of seaweed, an activity that was the origin of this small port around the 1960s. And it has a characteristic that preserves its genuineness: the only existing neighborhood is exclusively for resident fishermen. Here, tourism is just passing by.
Heading towards Carvalhal Beach on secondary roads but with more traffic than expected: I am in the greenhouse area of the southwest Alentejo – Brejão. They are immense. While the contribution to exports is undeniable, the working conditions leave much to be desired, and it remains to be seen what the future of this piece of territory will be when the land exhausts its resources. I do not believe that sustainability is a priority here. But that’s another story…
Immediately before starting to descend to Carvalhal Beach, something unusual catches our eye: in a piece of land exposed to the curiosity of passersby but separated by a wire fence (with electrification, just in case!), we have a small… zoo! Ostriches, Buffaloes, Zebras… in Alentejo!
Steep descent and I arrive at Carvalhal Beach. Another one that is nestled between cliffs and punctuated by a small stream. Very beautiful and, at this hour, a refuge for seagulls.
I leave from the north side and pass by a small tourist resort. This more than secondary road will take me to Zambujeira do Mar. Perhaps the most famous in the area, due to the music festivals. The Alentejo’s Woodstock… so to speak!
Zambujeira do Mar
Nesta altura procurava-se almoço. Vicissitudes da época: tudo fechado. Iria ter que esperar por chegar a Vila Nova de Milfontes. Mas até lá ainda havia que fazer…
Dirigi-me a um local que já não visitava há muito tempo: o Cabo Sardão e o seu Farol.
Mas antes, ainda parei na Entrada da Barca. Pequeno porto, entre alcantilados e com uma boca de mar estreita que oferecerá um abrigo privilegiado se as vagas se mostrarem alterosas. Nesta altura fica particularmente bonito…
Entrada da Barca
Sigo e rapidamente chego ao Cabo Sardão. Para lá da imponência do Farol que se destaca no pequeno planalto onde está implantado (e convenientemente afastado das falésias) as vistas são magníficas. Merece destaque observar com olhar mais atento e próximo, a riqueza geológica das paredes verticais que se opõem ao mar, onde as sucessivas camadas exibem a evolução deste planeta onde moramos.
Tracer 9 GT – Cabo Sardão
Finally I arrive in Vila Nova de Milfontes. After a late lunch, rushed with the urgency of delay, a short walk around this village in the municipality of Odemira, which I knew when it was almost unknown (pleasant and picturesque at the time) and which succumbed to the dictates of mass tourism. It has not lost its beauty but has grown a lot…
The mouth of the River Mira and its banks provide shelter for those who have made the sea their life, since time immemorial. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths… and so many others after that, found refuge here.
Vila Nova Milfontes
The calm Praia da Franquia still on the course of the River Mira or the Praia do Farol near the mouth or the more extensive Praia das Furnas on the “other side”, are invaded in the summer. Not even the old and wild Praia do Malhão, with its extensive sandy beach, escapes. If the beauty of the area is undeniable, it is not one of my favorite destinations in the summer. Especially because it is much more beautiful at this time. Have I told you that winter enhances the beauty of the beaches?
Approaching the end of the planned route. It is time to leave EN120 which here turns inland.
What I lack is all too well known. But I couldn’t help but go check if, after all, the peach tree is still on the Island, paraphrasing Rui Veloso.
The approach to the coast is mythical: the straight line perpendicular to the ocean, with the Island as a backdrop. Beautiful! The rugged sea completes the scenery.
Beach and Peachtree Island
As for the peach tree? I didn’t catch a glimpse of it. Maybe you can see it more closely…
I headed to Porto Covo. If its center remains typical and well cared for, what surrounds the original urban cluster suggests that in the summer the calm I found now will not exist. Consequences of fame…
Porto Covo – village
Finally Sines! The birthplace of Vasco da Gama. I ended the trip by the beach named after the navigator.
At both ends of the bay are the fishing port in its usual place and on the other side a small marina. Behind me, the village of Sines with its imposing castle and the statue that honors the most important and famous son of the land: Vasco da Gama.
Sines – Vasco da Gama Beach
The two statues mark the beginning and end of this route: From the Infante to the Gama!
The day was ending, the sun was nearing the sunset and… the rain reappeared, as if to say it was time to go home. And so I did. We should not go against Nature.
CONCLUSION
From Sagres to Sines it’s about 130 km. With all the twists and turns to hop from beach to beach, I added another 100 km. It was worth it.
Travel Map
Many other hidden corners and beaches exist, just as beautiful or even more. Given the available time, I made choices and this itinerary can be an excellent appetizer for a more detailed search. Especially because it’s just… around the corner!
Good curves! Porto Covo And the Tracer 9 GT? The Tracer 9 GT has been on the market for 2 years. It was a very pleasant surprise for me, considering that the expectation was high. It certainly exceeded it. WHAT I REALLY LIKED: • The overall balance of the bike, excellent behavior in various situations, and general comfort; • The three-cylinder engine, with 119hp, gives us the best of both worlds: the smoothness at low revs of a four and the vigor in recovery and revving up of a twin. The engine’s elasticity is excellent. And it performs well… with a magnificent soundtrack; • The semi-active KYB suspensions. With two options, one firmer and sportier and the other softer and suitable for roads with more uneven surfaces, it fulfills without any flaws. Especially because its operation is directly linked to the rest of the electronics, in particular to the 6-axis IMU inertial sensors, adjusting the damping at each moment to the driving conditions and the bike’s load; • The numerous adjustment possibilities allowed by the electronics: 4 driving modes, traction control (3 levels), cornering ABS, anti-wheelie (3 levels);• Good level of aerodynamic protection and the possibility of adjusting the glass with just one hand and on the move if necessary;
WHAT I LIKED:
• The brakes. Without a fault and without showing fatigue. In practice… I didn’t notice them. They were always there when needed and in the right measure;
• The ergonomics are good. I immediately felt comfortable and the driving position is comfortable.
• The aesthetics (something always subjective) is strange at first and then becomes ingrained – as Fernando Pessoa would say. One thing is undeniable: like it more or less, the bike has personality and its lines do not leave us indifferent;
• It is equipped with identical side cases (Yamaha placed the tip of the exhaust at the exit of the catalyst and pointing downwards, obviating the use of a side muffler – well seen, I just don’t know if it will not project heat to the rear tire accelerating its wear…). Furthermore, with capacity for a full-face helmet each;
• The cruise control: easy to use and great for a longer trip on the highway;
It was time to return
TO IMPROVE:
• The multiplicity of regulations that electronics allow is not immediate and intuitive. It is necessary to study the manual!
• The division of the instrument panel into two parts is not happy. Neither from an aesthetic point of view (and with somewhat dated technology) nor from its usability.
• The regulation of the heated grips was traumatic: first, it is necessary to find their “light” on the panel, which is by default off and therefore hardly visible, then it is necessary to scroll through the screens with the “wheel” of the left grip until finding it.
• The quickshifter showed some fatigue after a certain point, making gear shifting less smooth and even, in one or two situations, requiring the use of the clutch to shift to the desired gear;
• The position of the side stand. It is behind the footrest and whenever you want to lower the stand, the foot hits it and the stand returns to its initial position. It is undoubtedly a matter of habit, but it is undeniable that there is something imperfect there. It could also be a lack of skill from the user…
Sport Touring
CONCLUSION:
The Yamaha Tracer 9 GT fully lives up to the brand’s classification: sport touring. It is an excellent option, with a great engine and a frame that does it justice. The variety of options that the electronics provide allows the user to customize it to their liking, maximizing the identification between rider and machine. Suspension is top-notch in the segment. The virtues are many and the flaws are just minor details that do not take away its merit (in practice, they are situations that familiarity solves).
Furthermore, for 2023, Yamaha has launched the Tracer 9 GT+, and that will be tested soon here in Motociclismo magazine. Stay tuned!
