The year has changed. It’s a time for reflections, they say… that’s what I did: I grabbed my balance and hit the road. This time I don’t bring you a legend of enchanted Moorish women, some story from our History, or even one of those scenes of knife and basin that populate our collective imagination. It’s going to be “just” a route.
The “Beiras Route” is simply that: an itinerary. A set of roads that come together in a fun and challenging route with stunning landscapes. I didn’t stop in the few towns crossed… I leave that task to those who want to take on the challenge of covering these little more than 300km.
Landscapes and curves are something that fills our souls. And this time I associated the experience with a motorcycle that has aroused a lot of curiosity in the motorcycling community and received excellent comments from those who have already tried it.
I’m talking about the Macbor Montana XR5. I can only subscribe – and highlight even more – what was said in the review published in the October issue of Motociclismo: “…it really is an excellent motorcycle, and if you want an affordable trail bike, with an adventurous look that actually allows good off-road excursions, in addition to easy and fun riding on the road and in the city, then you have a beautiful option here.”
It’s true, very true… and I assure you, it was a lot of fun days at the helm of this Macbor!
WHY “DESIGN” THIS ROUTE?
Choosing a set of roads, connecting them and resulting in an interesting route does not require special skill. However, I know that there are many who seek these “pre-made” routes, perhaps because they do not want to go on an adventure, probably because they do not want to put in that effort, or even… who knows why, they trust in others’ art.
On the other hand, I recently came into contact in Spain with this type of “routes” that are even promoted by official tourist entities… imagine that! They call them “Rutas Moteras”. Here we talk about some roads… but they are relatively short routes (except for the already much traveled EN2): N222, N103, the Atlantic Road… And promotion? Nowhere to be seen.
The center of Portugal has an orography where plains practically do not exist. It seems that a powerful force “crumpled” the territory and then left it that way… There are many mountain ranges that stick to each other.
If we except the “new” highways and itineraries, the remaining roads (main and others) were built following this terrain relief – curves and counter-curves, ups and downs – over time, as they say, the engineers were English and when asked if another curve should be made ahead, they invariably responded “Yes!”. To which people responded: “make another ‘S’ curve…
They are twisted roads, necessarily slow and, when done on 4 wheels, uncomfortable especially for passengers. But for riding a motorcycle, they are a dream. A paradise on earth… and so close by.
The region crossed on the “Rota das Beiras” has some characteristics of its own: it does not pass through large urban centers, it passes through a few almost forgotten villages, we are in permanent contact with nature. And the contact with the people is so easy and pleasant!
It goes through areas that are cyclically devastated by summer fires. And also by a lot of emigration. Reasons why I do not recommend Summer to travel through.
So, here is a suggestion for a route that will entertain you and make you admire even more the beauty of our country: the “Rota das Beiras”.
ROTA DAS BEIRAS – FROM ANSIÃO TO PAMPILHOSA (1st DAY)
The “click” that made me choose this area had a very prosaic origin: the sound of the name Pampilhosa da Serra – try saying syllable by syllable “Pam-pi-lho-sa” … it has musicality, doesn’t it? – and the National Road 112 between this village and Castelo Branco, already famous among the motorcycling community.
But it was necessary to reach Pampilhosa, so let’s do it. I started the “Rota das Beiras”, symbolically, in Ansião. Accessible for those coming from the north or south (as was my case). From there, ten kilometers on the IC8 and we turn right, towards Figueiró dos Vinhos on the EM525, passing through the first highlight of the journey, the Fragas de S. Simão.
Visible from the viewpoint at the top of the walkways that lead to the river beach at the foot of the gorge where the Ribeira de Alge flows. But before getting there – this stretch of road is remarkable! – I make a small detour to the right, to Casal de S. Simão. A small cluster of shale houses that appears to be in an advanced stage of recovery and with a tourist vocation. Upon arriving there, I am faced with another perspective of the Fragas, this one less known but no less beautiful.
Right after the inevitable stop at the Miradouro das Fragas de S. Simão, I go up a bit and turn left onto the EN237. I continue to Figueiró, passing through a village with a nice name: Aldeia de Ana de Avis.
It is more than 30km along this road, where I pass through the highest point of the “Rota das Beiras”: Alto do Cavalo, almost 900m high.
When I reach EN351, it’s time to turn left towards Pampilhosa da Serra, the end of this first journey. The descent to Zêzere is fantastic. To the left, spread out on the slope, is Álvaro, one of the Schist Villages.
Descending to the bridge, I cross the river and then, always going up until I find EN344. This road, which comes from EN2 (in the Álvares area) to Pampilhosa, offers a fabulous view of the Meanders of Zêzere from Portela do Fojo. I drive in both directions looking for the best photo… especially because sunset was approaching. Photographers call it the “golden hour”. For some reason, it is!
The day ended in Pampilhosa. I confess that the view from up there, from the Miradouro do Cristo Rei, did not dazzle me. The larger number of houses than the population of less than 1500 inhabitants would suggest, clearly shows the influence of emigration that has taken many people from here.
Next to Ribeira de Unhais, the small dam creates a pleasant water feature that, I am sure, will be very pleasant in hot weather. And it adds another beauty to the center of the village.
I had covered 120km (in addition to the distance traveled to reach the starting point, of course…).
ROTA DAS BEIRAS – FROM PAMPILHOSA TO CASTELO DE ALMOUROL (2ND DAY)
After a restful sleep, I hit the road again. If the day before I avoided the few villages along the way… on this day I covered many kilometers without even finding any! It was time to meet EN112. Its reputation precedes it and with good reason.
I wasn’t expecting what I would find (maybe I should have…). I left Pampilhosa at an altitude of almost 400m and soon was already cycling above 600m. In the valleys below me, a very dense fog transformed the landscape. I was riding above the clouds and the views were breathtaking… until I started to descend. And I confirmed: the fog was indeed thick.
I passed Cambas, crossed the Zêzere river again, and continued in the same mountainous terrain until reaching Orvalho. The fog was starting to clear and behind it came the sun.
A few more kilometers on EN112 – living up to its reputation – and about 40km after the start of the journey it was time to leave it and start heading south. Another EN was waiting for me… but there was still a long way to go. And that long way… would be on very secondary, very secondary roads. I turned towards Paiágua. Passed through Silvosa and Vinha. Here, a brief stop and a conversation about the olive harvest and the precious olive oil produced in these lands. Still Sesmo, Cardosa, Pé da Serra (riding on EM548), Azenha de Cima until reaching near Sarzedas. 30 spectacular kilometers, I tell you!
I continued on EN233 until Catraia Cimeira, Here I turned left towards Foz do Cobrão. A paradisiacal spot among the hills and with the freshness of the Ocreza River, a tributary of the Tagus.
I continued south until I found EN241 and, finally, further ahead EN3. It was to this that I referred to earlier.
According to the National Road Plan of 1945 – which established the National Roads as we still know them today – the importance of roads was related to their strategic importance for the country’s development. EN1 goes from Lisbon to Porto (passing through Leiria, Coimbra, and Aveiro) and EN2 goes from Chaves at one end to Faro at the other, always through the interior. EN3 starts in Carregado (at the intersection with EN1) and ends in Castelo Branco (after crossing EN2 in Abrantes). It is the definition of roads as a network.
However, with the construction of the A23 motorway, some sections of EN3 were amputated. Still, the stretch I wanted to follow starts in Gardete (near Fratel), passes through Mação, and ends in Abrantes where it meets EN2. I must tell you that these are some of the best 40km of our roads (despite a small stretch where the pavement needs some care).
The end was near. In Abrantes, I crossed the Tagus River – did you know that this bridge is the oldest road crossing over the Tagus River, built in 1870, and during its first 75 years of life, it had tolls?
Next were the famous Curvas do Tramagal. The last winding stretch before the end of the “Rota das Beiras.”
Another 15km and I was enjoying the spectacular view of the proud Castle of Almourol. The “Rota das Beiras” was completed. Over 300 km that felt like much more!
Editor’s Note for November
In the November edition of Motociclismo, I talked to you about the trouble in Cedillo: the isolation caused by the dam between the villages of Montalvão and Cedillo. Well, as a result of the latest Iberian Summit, there is now funding for the construction of the long-awaited bridge. And a date: 2025. Since this is not the first time the promise has been made, let’s wait and see…
